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Appearance: The 1997 Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ showcases an elegant, golden hue that speaks to its maturity while maintaining an unexpected vibrancy. The wine displays a delicate brilliance in the glass, with refined bubbles delicately rising— an indicator of the magnum's perfect aging conditions.
Nose: On the nose, this rare vintage reveals an intricate and layered bouquet. At first, the depth of its 27 years is apparent through warm notes of honey, toasted brioche, and vanilla, underscored by a subtle nuttiness. As it opens up, the aromas reveal a beautifully evolved profile with rich tones of dried fruits, particularly apricots and figs, mingling with light floral hints of acacia. The nose elegantly balances its tertiary qualities while still retaining a sense of freshness.
Palate: The palate is a symphony of complexity and finesse—the creamy texture, with a velvety mousse that coats the mouth, offering a luxurious tasting experience. Flavours of ripe orchard fruits—baked apples and poached pears—are intertwined with delicate layers of toasted almonds, buttered brioche, and a touch of vanilla. The signature chalky minerality of Aÿ lingers on the palate, offering a distinct salinity that enhances the wine's complexity. Despite its age, the wine still retains a vibrant acidity that brings balance to the richness, and its length is exceptional, leaving a memorable finish with hints of caramel and a whisper of sea air, perhaps conjured from the emotion of the moment.
Conclusion: The 1997 Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ is a masterpiece of time and terroir, offering an exquisite expression of chardonnay from a region typically known for its Pinot Noir. A rare gem in every sense, this champagne surprises with its vitality and elegance, defying the expectations of a vintage not historically lauded. It is a beautiful reminder of how magnum aging can transform a wine into something transcendent.
Final Thoughts: Sipping this 1997 vintage was a profoundly moving experience, not only because of the quality in the glass but also because of the memories it carried with it— our daughter's birth year, the last bottle of its kind, and the company of family on a special night. It is a testament to the power of champagne, not just as a drink but as a vessel of memory and celebration.
Amanda Reboul – Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blanc d'Ay 1997 tasted 10 September, 2024
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